When I saw the latest pattern by Cocowawa it really caught my attention, the collar and pocket details particularly make it stand out from the crowd, so I didn’t hesitate in sending off for it. The Nutmeg comes in 2 versions, a shorter jacket that finishes on the hip and a long length trench coat which is the version I decided on. There is also an option of putting a bow on the sleeves but I chose the plain sleeve version because as nice as they look personally I do find frills and bows etc around my wrists rather annoying. Also for all you pocket lovers out there as well as the 2 front patch pockets there are also some lovely deep inseam pockets.
I already had the perfect fabric waiting – a dusky pink cotton/linen blend that I picked up from Birmingham Rag Market at a bargain £6 per metre. See my previous post for my trousers in the same fabric/different colourway.
The Nutmeg is only available as a PDF but if you really don’t fancy sticking all the pieces together (there are quite a lot) you can send off for the A0 version to be printed for you. I was way too impatient for that so spent an afternoon with Sellotape in hand and a cup of tea.
My measurements put me into several different sizes – Size 3 for Bust, 6 for Waist and 5 for the Hips so it is well worth studying the finished measurement chart. There is plenty of ease in this pattern so I decided to cut a straight size 4.
The instructions are good and for the trickier bits there is also a YouTube video which I found helpful. The first stage of making is the preparation of the pockets and pocket flaps, these are unusual because they are cut at an angle rather than the average rectangle – I did get confused adding the flap because looking at the picture in the instructions the flap should sit parallel to the pocket but when I folded it down over the pocket it didn’t sit right. After a bit of head scratching I realised that if I flipped it over then it worked. I have added pictures below to explain better what I mean. It really wasn’t that complicated but I just couldn’t get my head round it for a while and the pictures on the instructions aren’t a very accurate explanation.
I like that the plackets are straight forward fold over on both sides, I have sewn shirts before where cutting is required on one side and there is always the fear that you will cut the wrong one! This is a much more stress free method.
I decided to add the ruffle to the collar and I was expecting it to be difficult, I have been admiring collars like this for a while now and it was far easier than I expected and think it adds a really classy touch to the jacket. I also like how the collar is finished off with bias binding. I added a hanging loop too which wasn’t in the instructions but this is simple enough to do, I just cut off a strip of bias tape and topstitched around the edges before basting it in place on the inside of the jacket with the loop hanging down towards the jacket then the bias binding around the neckline goes on top of this to give a really neat finish.
I also added bias binding to the side seams which is well worth the effort and gives a really nice finish on the inside.
Originally I hadn’t intended to add a belt so didn’t make any belt loops but once I had finished and tried it on I was curious what it would look like with the belt. I had some spare fabric and cut out the belt and I have got to say I really like the different look this gives to the jacket. I probably won’t bother adding the loops because I do want to be able to wear it unbelted too and want the clean finish rather than having loops showing and the belt sits in place well enough without the loops.
I always dread the final stage of adding buttonholes, this is where your perfect garment can go horribly wrong. My machine hates bulky seams and I have a sliding buttonhole foot where you place the button in the back and it automatically sews the buttonhole to the correct size. This has gone wrong on several occasions so it really puts the fear into me. For the top button I decided to sew it horizontally rather than vertically to avoid the foot getting caught around the collar. The rest of the buttons are sewn vertically and all went well until that final one at the bottom. Luckily I was going very slowly and saw it jam so was able to rescue it but it’s always a great sign of relief when that job is done!
Anyway the verdict is out – I love this jacket there as been a lot of thought put into it by the designer to make it stand out, we are into the winter months here in the UK and this is probably a more spring like version being a pale linen but to be honest I don’t care I am going to wear it anyway and when Spring comes I will still be wearing it.
Total Cost £33.40
Fabric £6 per metre (2.5 Metres £15) Bias Binding £3 Gutermann Thread 568 x 2 ( £3.90) Pattern (1st time used) £11.50